I generally use a heavily grogged crank clay, especially for my garden sculptures. This type of clay has the rough, natural feel that I am looking for. I hand build all of my pieces by rolling a slab of clay and then building the shape that I want. To get the surface design I use naturally found tools such as stones, shells and twigs found on local fells and beaches. I then use my fingers to add a unique fingerprint to my pieces. The use of natural objects to make the surface design adds a dimension not evident in other ceramics.

Once the form is created it has to stand for a week or so until the clay goes 'leather hard'.  When the clay is leather hard, the pieces are 'biscuit fired' at 800^oC, which completely dries the clay and prepares the surface for glazing. During the biscuit firing, the pieces can shrink by up to 10% in volume. For surface colouring I use natural earth oxides, such as rutile, iron and vanadium, and then a matt light-oatmeal glaze. Once glazed I fire my work to 'stoneware' or 1280^oC, which makes the clay completely non-porus and frost proof.

Although I appreciate the skill in producing neat and tidy pieces, I actually like my ceramics left with a rough appearance due to my unconventional approach to slab rolling, hand building and mark making.

I choose not to produce thrown forms but if I did, I would end up altering them to make them appear dishevelled and aged!